Niacinamide
INCI Niacinamide
The amide form of vitamin B3. Supports the skin barrier, a more even-looking tone and a refined look to pores. One of the best-tolerated actives in skincare.
- Typical use range
- 2–10% per the literature, not our formula
- Also known as
- Nicotinamide, Vitamin B3, Niacinamide (Vitamin B3)
- Identifiers
- PubChem CID 936
Niacinamide is the amide form of vitamin B3 (nicotinamide). It is water-soluble, stable across the pH range most serums use, and one of the most studied ingredients in the cosmetic dermatology literature.
In skin it acts as a precursor to the NAD+ and NADP+ coenzymes that cell metabolism depends on. In cosmetic use that translates to three visible effects reported in the literature: support for the skin barrier (including increased ceramide production in cultured skin cells), a more even-looking tone (it has been shown in vitro to reduce the transfer of pigment-containing melanosomes to surface cells), and a refined look to pores and shine over several weeks of use.
It is non-acidic and layers well with almost everything, including acids, retinoids and sunscreen filters. Most published studies use 2–5%. Concentrations above 10% add tolerability risk without a clear added benefit; occasional transient flushing at high percentages is the most common complaint.
Where you will find it.
Percentages are read from each product's stated active complex. Where none is stated the ingredient appears in the full INCI only.
Can niacinamide be used with vitamin C?
Yes. The old advice to separate them came from work on unstabilised formulas at high heat. In modern formulas at a skin-friendly pH they are routinely combined. If you use a separate vitamin C serum, apply it first and let it settle.
Does a higher percentage work better?
Not in a straight line. Most of the published work sits between 2% and 5%. Above 10% the chance of flushing or stinging rises faster than the benefit. We formulate within the substantiated range.
How long before I notice a difference?
Allow 4–8 weeks of twice-daily use. Barrier comfort tends to come first, then tone and the look of pores.
- CosIng, Niacinamide (EU cosmetic ingredient database) ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/
- PubChem, Nicotinamide (CID 936) pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/936
- Bissett DL, Oblong JE, Berge CA. Niacinamide: a B vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance. Dermatol Surg. 2005;31(7 Pt 2):860–865.
- Hakozaki T et al. The effect of niacinamide on reducing cutaneous pigmentation and suppression of melanosome transfer. Br J Dermatol. 2002;147(1):20–31.