Ingredient glossary

Panthenol (provitamin B5)

INCI Panthenol

Provitamin B5. A humectant and emollient that helps the skin hold water and feel comfortable, especially alongside exfoliating acids.

Typical use range
1–5% per the literature, not our formula
Also known as
D-Panthenol, Dexpanthenol, Provitamin B5, Pro-vitamin B5, Pantothenol
What it does

Panthenol is the alcohol form of pantothenic acid (vitamin B5). Applied to skin it is converted to pantothenic acid, a component of coenzyme A, which is involved in the synthesis of the lipids that make up the skin barrier. The D-form (dexpanthenol) is the biologically active one and the form used in good formulas.

Cosmetically it works as a humectant, drawing water into the upper layers, and as an emollient, softening the surface. Studies of topical dexpanthenol report improved skin hydration, reduced water loss and a calmer feel, which is why it appears in after-sun products, baby care and, increasingly, in active serums where it offsets the drying tendency of acids.

Typical use is 1–5%. It is water-soluble, stable, colourless and among the best-tolerated ingredients in skincare. It has no exfoliating action and no effect on sun sensitivity, so it can be used morning and evening without adjusting the rest of a routine.

In our formulas

Where you will find it.

Percentages are read from each product's stated active complex. Where none is stated the ingredient appears in the full INCI only.

Pairs well with
Questions

What is the difference between panthenol and pantothenic acid?

Panthenol is the more stable precursor. Skin converts it into pantothenic acid, the active vitamin B5, after application.

Is panthenol suitable for oily skin?

Yes. It hydrates without adding oil and has a light, non-greasy feel in a serum.

Sources
  1. CosIng, Panthenol (EU cosmetic ingredient database) ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/
  2. Ebner F, Heller A, Rippke F, Tausch I. Topical use of dexpanthenol in skin disorders. Am J Clin Dermatol. 2002;3(6):427–433.
  3. Proksch E, de Bony R, Trapp S, Boudon S. Topical use of dexpanthenol: a 70th anniversary article. J Dermatolog Treat. 2017;28(8):766–773.