Centella asiatica (cica)

Centella asiatica is a small creeping herb of the Apiaceae family, known as gotu kola, as mandukaparni in Ayurveda and as "cica" in Korean skincare. The cosmetic extract is standardised for a group of triterpenoid compounds: asiaticoside, madecassoside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid.

In cosmetic literature these compounds are described as soothing and antioxidant, with supportive effects on the skin's own renewal processes and on collagen synthesis in laboratory models. In a finished formula the extract is chosen to calm the look of redness, to make an active-heavy serum more comfortable to use, and to support a hydrated, resilient-feeling barrier.

It is well tolerated and pairs naturally with exfoliating acids and other potent actives, where it acts as the counterweight. Extract quality varies widely between suppliers, so the useful questions are which compounds the extract is standardised to and at what level, rather than simply whether "centella" appears on the label.